It is more the jewellery and the craft itself rather than outside sources?
I think so. It has always been more about the technique and working with the metal and then pieces come out of that. And just every day. I think it is like always trying to make pieces that are wearable and simple but still quite interesting.
Taking inspiration from traditions in jewellery and making it your own?
Exactly. And, for instance, I mainly set in white gold, which I never used to do. I used to set a lot in yellow. I still use yellow gold in the main piece, but I like to actually set the diamond in white. It shows them off and I like the way it looks. So, pieces come out of that sort of thing.
That makes sense! I read somewhere that you said when you work with custom or unique stones, it is like a tiny house set around the house.
That is true. I think it is like architecture on a tiny scale. It is the same. You do technical drawings in the same way. It is often building out from the stone and getting the design that way.
I guess, because I am Danish, I am interested in the connection to Georg Jensen. Your father used to work with him, right?
He trained there, under Henning Koppel. Was there for a while.
And what you took from him was the shape and the movement?
Totally, I think what we always say that he got is form. It is all about form and trying to keep form in the pieces. That’s the biggest thing that has carried through. It is always form, thinking about the form. And there’s a lot of curving shapes and it is all kind of smooth but simple. It is interesting but simple. Danish aesthetic.
Something that’s also important to cover is your ethical and sustainable practices?
Everything is pretty much recycled gold. I work only in 18 karat gold and a bit in platinum, but mainly 18 karat yellow and white gold, and it is pretty much all recycled. I work with only one stone dealer, who I’ve always worked with. He came through my dad and it is all sort of top colour and very ethical stones, diamonds mainly, from Botswana. Everything over a half karat does have a certificate but the smaller stones don’t, but he’s got a very trustworthy sourcing, so it is all very ethical, which is nice.
Why is that important to you?
I think, unfortunately, diamonds specifically, but also gold in terms of mining practices, these things have always been an issue for the industry. The origin of most diamonds is super problematic. Literally, in the last 10 years, I would say, the whole supply chain has become much clearer. For instance, all of my gold dealers use recycled gold now without me even having to ask. Whereas 10 years ago when I started, you had to pay extra for recycled materials, and you had to ask for everything, and no one would tell you where anything came from and it all felt very ethically ambiguous, and really difficult. Because you want to make jewellery, but you want to find materials that are not damaging the world or being sourced in very awful manners. Therefore, it was very nice when it became much easier to work with dealers and buy gold that was ethical and sustainable. It took a massive weight of my shoulders in terms of having to try and source that stuff. As an industry, it does not always have great practices, but it is nice that things are changing.