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What you need to know about high-stress engagement ring designs

What you need to know about high-stress engagement ring designs

A high-stress design in jewellery refers to ring styles or settings that place significant physical strain on the metal due to the way they are constructed or how they interact with daily wear. These designs often require the metal to provide exceptional structural integrity and durability to maintain the piece’s longevity and functionality, and may require more regular maintenance than a non-high-stress design. Here are some common examples and features of high-stress designs:

Tension settings

In tension settings, the gemstone is held in place solely by the pressure of the metal band, with no prongs or bezel securing it. This design creates a visually striking floating effect but requires a very strong metal (like platinum) to prevent deformation and maintain enough pressure to hold the stone securely.

Ultra-thin bands

Rings with very thin or dainty bands are more prone to bending, especially if they endure frequent impacts or pressure during daily wear. Over time, softer metals like yellow gold can lose their shape or become misshapen under stress.

Knife-edge bands

Knife-edge designs feature a sharp, raised ridge along the center of the band. While elegant and modern, these bands concentrate stress along the edges, making them more susceptible to wear and deformation, particularly in softer metals like gold.

Large or heavy gemstone settings

Rings with oversized or heavy gemstones place additional stress on the setting and the band. This is particularly true for raised settings (like tall prongs or cathedral mounts), which increase the likelihood of the ring snagging or being struck, requiring a strong and durable metal to avoid bending or loosening.

Open or floating designs

Open designs, like split shanks or negative space bands, reduce the overall structural support of the ring. These styles require a sturdy metal to prevent distortion or breakage.

Multi-stone settings (especially pavé or micro-pavé)

Pavé and micro-pavé designs involve numerous small stones set closely together. The tiny prongs or beads securing these stones can be fragile and prone to bending or wear, particularly in softer metals like yellow gold. Durable metals like white gold or platinum, or lower karats of yellow gold, can provide more structural integrity for these intricate designs.

Designs exposed to impact

Rings designed for heavy daily wear, such as those with exposed settings or bold, protruding elements, are at higher risk of damage from knocks or pressure. A robust metal is crucial to protect both the design and the gemstones.

What is the best metal choice for high-stress designs?

Platinum: Ideal for high-stress designs due to its strength, density, and resistance to deformation over time.

White Gold: Offers a good balance of durability and aesthetic appeal, though it may require occasional rhodium plating.

Yellow Gold: Can work for high-stress designs in lower karats, but is less ideal in higher karats due to its softness.

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